The wave had a Teahupoo-esque personality, but not as perfect. Sets were detonating on the reef with different angles, making it really hard to predict. Matchu took his time to observe the set-up, then decided to give it a go. Dropping on his first wave, he chose his line and made it into the barrel but, surrounded by water, the wave sucked so much water from the reef that the bottom dropped away, his board's nose stuck and he wiped out belly first. To get the most from the wave he realised that a more bold approach was needed, dropping first behind the peak and then navigating the weird steps at the base of the wave. Too deep and he wouldn't make it; too up front and he would out run the wave. He soon found the perfect place, stalling halfway up the wave face, grabbing the rail in his unique backside, soulful manner and found himself inside the house of heavy water. In that brief moment, all concerns about the pandemic dissipated like whitewater on the surface of the sea. A flourishing excitement mixed with a sense of peace; something we've missed in this world in turmoil.

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