All the stress and uncertainty of the trip had been worth it, but just when we thought things couldn't get better, back to back powerful storms in the forecast promised more amazing conditions to come. After much consideration, we decided to stay longer and didn't regret it. Having been so confined in recent months, robbed of our personal freedoms, we made the best of every chance we had to be in the water, day after day. Our trip came to an abrupt end however when Matchu lost his balance while navigating an exit from a barrel and found himself imprisoned under the heavy lip. The wave broke on him, pressing the back of his knee into the board. At first it didn't look serious, but as the time passed he was visibly in more and more pain. Lifelong surfer, Yvon Chouinard, once said, “Surfing is one of those useless sports, it has no value to society.” I couldn't agree more, yet we surf every time we can. It has no value to society directly, but each time we go to the ocean something happens to our psyche. It improves our physical and spiritual wellbeing in ways that few other things can. We become better humans; better citizens. Time waits for no one. It's not selfish to long for the sea, because in it no matter what, we find solace.



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